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The Ultimate Guide To Skincare With Dermalogica

At the moment Dermalogica connects with skin, the health of your skin is newly defined. When it comes to skincare globally, professionals and consumers alike opt for Dermalogica. Why? Because with more than 25 years of dedication to delivering outstanding healthy skin results through education, innovate development and specialised recommendation, it is the number one choice – not by wrapping it up in fancy packaging, giving guarantees of a miracle cure or exaggerated hype!


Which Dermalogica products should I use?

Initially, establishing your skin type is key.

“Primarily, there is ‘skin type’ and ‘skin condition’. Type means the skin you were naturally born with, for example, dry or oily skin. When referring to condition, it is something that may lead you to experience added problems such as irritation or acne. Whether temporary or a more extended period, it can happen to anybody. In some cases, a skin condition can remain permanently….” Dermalogica.

Dermalogica’s Face Mapping uses an exclusive tool for skin analysis. The results provide a clear view into your skin’s ‘past and present’ and enables the resultant prescription of a home care regime which will target the overall future health of your skin. Through this 5-10-minute complimentary analysis, one of Dermalogica’s therapists can carry out a skin analysis. We have divided the skin into 14 segments; there is no two skin’s alike, each is different.

Just the same, each of the 14 segments can vary. For instance, your cheeks could be oily, but your nose dehydrated. It provides both us and the therapist with a complete overview of precisely what skin conditions apply to the client. It presents us with an understanding of perhaps where the condition has come from and how we can treat it, to provide the client with the best skin care possible going forward.

The Face Mapping procedure also incorporates some ‘lifestyle’ questions, which assist the therapist in determining the greatest care for your individual skin. The results from Face Mapping may mean focusing on several different treatments for various areas of your face. Your Dermalogica therapist will, from the analysis results, be able to recommend the best products for your regime based on your skin makeup, as opposed to using one of the four universal skin types.


Dermalogica for Normal to Combination Skin

A significant number of us have a mixture of skin worries, typically all of them occurring at once. Why does that happen? Because believe it or not, your skin is a living organ. It is in constant turmoil fighting against weather, hormones, stress (internally and externally), remaining hydrated and well-oiled, and yet not too much, all the while regenerating and attempting to maintain an even tone and battle against breakouts! When you come to think of it, it is not any wonder that your skin suffers from a combination of problems! Decide on a cleanser which is suitable for your skin type and combine it with treatments which are more targeted and tailored to your unique skin condition.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse & Special Cleansing Gel

  • Exfoliator: Daily Microfoliant

  • Toner: Multi-Active Toner

  • Moisturiser: Skin Smoothing Cream, Solar Defence Booster SPF50

  • Night Cream: Sound Sleep Cocoon, Targeted Treatment: Skin Hydrating Booster


Dermalogica for Breakout Prone Skin

Is your skin prone to acne, or do you often experience breakouts? Do you long to have a clear complexion? They say, “knowledge is power”, and this is very true when it relates to dealing with breakouts and skin which is prone to acne. Gaining an understanding of ‘what it is’, ‘why it happens’, ‘how to deal with it’ and ‘which are the best treatments to use’ are the crucial steps to getting a lot closer to being able to clear up the issues you have with your skin. Everybody gets spots at one time or another – even that clear complexioned friend of yours who always seems to have such perfect skin. Why? For the simple fact that we all have sebaceous glands which can become blocked. No matter what skin type you have, each of us has skin which can overproduce oil – leading to clogged pores - which is a perfect condition for bacterial growth and can ultimately lead to spots. This is more noticeable at certain ages. When someone reaches their late teens and hits puberty, a surge of sex hormones races through the body which can lead to overproduction of oil and subsequent breakouts. It is the same for pregnant women and those going through the menopause. Many people have naturally oily skin, making them typically more prone to breakouts. So, nobody is entirely unaffected by spots.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse, Clearing Skin Wash

  • Exfoliator: Gentle Cream Exfoliant

  • Toner: Multi-Active Toner

  • Moisturiser: Oil Free Matte SPF30, Active Moist (PM)

  • Targeted Treatments: Breakout Control, Overnight Clearing Gel, Sebum Clearing Masque


Dermalogica for Oily Skin

Whether you have completely oily skin or just an oily t-zone, it is vital that you select skincare with the correct active ingredients for your unique skin type.

What is meant by the term ‘oily skin’? The surface, or external layer of the skin, is protected by something which is known as the ‘lipid barrier’. This barrier is created by the sebaceous glands which produce lipids from sebum – the thing which holds dead skin cells together. This protective barrier prevents pollutants and other irritants from getting into the skin, but also water and the good nutrients from seeping out. Skin oil then is just part of the natural order - and in relation to the volume of oil. So, if you are troubled with oily skin, it’s due to your sebaceous glands creating too much oil (sebum) which lies on the outer layer of your skin and clogs up the pores, all the while picking up pollutants, dead skin cells and dirt too. Bacteria can also get stuck on the surface of your skin too, causing breakouts and acne.  

Oily skin is one of the more common skin types, as can be treated by controlling the volume of oil produced and removing excess oil. Although the use of blotting paper is fine, it will not, in reality, solve the principal problem. Oily skin requires ingredients which 1) Control the production of oil – 2) Cleanse the excess oil from the skin and deep pores – 3) Manage breakouts – 4) Focus on the sensitivities from breakouts and irritation – 5) Moisturise Moisturise the skin – 6) Replenish lost water. Aloe Vera products are recognised as being helpful to those who have oily skin.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse, Dermal Clay Cleanser

  • Exfoliator: Skin Prep Scrub,

  • Toner: Multi-Active Toner,

  • Moisturiser: Active Moist, Oil Free Matte SPF30,

  • Night Cream: Sound Sleep Cocoon


Dermalogica for Dry skin

 As the words suggest, dry skin is when your skin is lacking in oil. The sebaceous glands produce lipids (oil) which sits on the surface of the skin and holds together dead skin cells which form a barrier protecting the skin beneath it. When there is a lack of oil (lipids) being produced by your sebaceous glands, it causes the barrier to collapse. The lipids act as a kind of glue between the cells holding the barrier together. Once the barrier is weak, irritants, dirt and pollutants can easily find their way into the layers of skin beneath, triggering sensitivity and soreness. Hence the reason why dry skin can bring about sensitivity, inflammation and patches of dry, flaky skin – dead cells shedding.

Dehydrated Skin

Dehydrated skin means a skin which is lacking in water. This can be as a consequence of areas of dry skin – an impaired lipid barrier. It does not just mean dirt and pollutants, etc., can get in, but that water can escape. The process is commonly referred to as ‘trans epidermal water loss’. The upshot of this is the deeper skin layers end up being dehydrated. There can be some confusion about dehydrated skin appearing the same as mature skin. Generally, this occurs because it causes wrinkles and fine lines, and in mature skin, deeper lines. Please take a moment to consider what happens to a grape when you leave it in the sun. As the water evaporates, it shrivels and eventually becomes a raisin. Okay, so thankfully the result might not be so apparent on your skin, but it may start to form fine silvery lines, have an uneven texture and begin to appear hollow and dull. The reason for this is with the loss of moisture, so too there is loss of plumpness and health of your skin.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse Balm, Intensive Moisture Cleanser

  • Exfoliator: Daily Microfoliant

  • Toner: Multi-Active Toner

  • Moisturiser: Intensive Moisture Balance (AM), Super Rich Repair (PM)

  • Targeted Treatment: Phyto Replenish Oil


Dermalogica for Mature Skin

Ageing skin or mature skin, as it is sometimes more politely referred, comes to us all. There are, however, some specially formulated products available for this type of skin which are becoming more and more popular. So, why does your skin change? As you mature, the structure of your skin alters, which can lead to changes in its appearance. So, what is the best way to look after your ageing skin? Through the process of ageing, skin naturally changes. Although we accept it, we still want to try and keep our skin healthy no matter what our age. Wrinkles and fine lines are, by all accounts, part of the ageing process as we move into our 40s and 50s. However, deep wrinkles, lines, dryness, dullness, age spots and other premature ageing signs, just don’t need to be! Some of these, among others, can often be skin structure signs, informing us that it’s becoming less compact and needs a helping hand!

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse Balm, Skin Resurfacing Cleanser

  • Exfoliator: Daily Superfoliant

  • Toner: Antioxidant Hydra Mist

  • Moisturiser: Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50, Intensive Moisture Balance (PM)

  • Targeted Treatments: BioLumin-C Serum (AM), Overnight Retinol Repair or Overnight Repair Serum (PM)


Dermalogica for Sensitive Skin

Skin sensitivity is caused due to a weakened skin barrier. The barrier, which is often referred to as the lipid barrier, is the layer on the surface of the skin which protects the deeper skin layers from pollutants, harmful chemicals, irritants and the environment. Its job is also to lock in goodness and moisture. The lipid barrier is a combination of dead skin cells which are glued (joined) together with oil (lipids). If the barrier is damaged or weakened because there is insufficient oil to keep it together, it affects how it functions. Breaks in the barrier allow for irritants to get under the skin and valuable water to seep out. There are some resemblances between sensitive skin and allergic skin reactions. In both instances, the damaged barrier is unable to stop irritants seeping into the deeper skin layers, which trigger a reaction. Allergic skin reactions are often caused by individual ingredients, while a more general reaction to irritants is known as having sensitive skin. Despite hypersensitivity being confused with allergic skin reactions from time to time, they are, in truth very different.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Precleanse Balm, UltraCalming Cleanser

  • Exfoliator: Daily Microfoliant

  • Toner: UltraCalming Mist,

  • Moisturiser: Calm Water Gel (AM), Super Sensitive Shield SPF30, Barrier Repair (PM)

  • Targeted Treatments: Barrier Defence Booster or UltraCalming Serum Concentrate


Dermalogica for Rosacea

Approximately one in ten people in the UK are affected by the medical condition called rosacea. Some who are suffering from rosacea are entirely unaware that this is their problem. They mistakenly think that they just have sensitive skin issues or redness. Some even put the flushing down to hormone changes.

Nevertheless, rosacea is a skin condition – where the skin flushes, which can occasionally turn into permanent redness, noticeable blood vessels, papules and pustules, spots and soreness. Periodically, some products lay claim to be a “cure” for rosacea, but the reality, as those suffering with it will more than likely know, there is no cure for this condition. With that said, it is possible to control your rosacea – skincare, diet and lifestyle are the three elements which, when adequately managed, can help deal with the inflammation caused by the condition. Raw, inflamed skin can make you extremely self-conscious – itchy, irritable and inflamed skin can make you feel down.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: UltraCalming Cleanser

  • Treatment: UltraCalming Serum Concentrate (AM & PM)

  • Moisturiser: Calm Water Gel (AM & PM), Super Sensitive Shield SPF30.


Dermalogica for Hyper-Pigmentation

What is hyper-pigmentation? It is limited or wide-spread brown spots seen on the top of the skin which make the skin appear uneven in tone. Sun damage or over-exposure to the sun’s rays are the typical cause but ageing and hormone-related problems can also trigger it. As you mature, you may see the colour of your complexion change. There are several reasons why this can occur. The single thing that all types of hyperpigmentation have is the irregularity in the production of the reddish/brown pigment in the skin (melanin). Your genetics play a significant role in determining the amount of melanin you have in your skin – however, stimulation of additional melanin comes with exposure to ultraviolet radiation and ultimately leads to hyperpigmentation (“age spots”). Around ninety per cent of those with sun-generated age spots start to see them by the time they reach 60; although harmless, they can play a big part in the appearances of ageing. Liver spots, as they are also known, on the hands, cheeks, forehead and other areas are those parts of the body often exposed to the sun. Vitamin C provides photo-protection caused by UV-induced Free Radicals and limits the damage. In reality, only 55 per cent of UV Free Radicals is blocked by an SPF (Sun Protection Factor). So, an SPF Vitamin C serum provides the best possible protection against this main skin ager. Pollutants in the environment like the ozone can also deplete the naturally occurring antioxidants in skin, causing FR damage – there is also the suggestion of a close link between atmospheric pollutants and skin pigmentation. Pollution particles are minute – four hundred times smaller than that of a skin pore - meaning they can get into the deeper layers of the skin quite quickly, trigger irritation, leading to the production of FRs.

Pollution Pigmentation: What does it look like? Varied: can materialise as random patches of brown skin on the cheeks, nose, forehead, chin, the jawline or upper lip. When skin inflammation or irritation occurs, for instance, with spots or through injury, the colour pigment of our skin, melanin, forms part of the healing process of the wound. After a while, if there is no further aggravation of the skin, the condition my self-resolve and the darker coloured pigment diminishes.

Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: What does it look like? On much lighter skin tones, darker pigmentation patches may appear redder – for instance, acne scarring.

Shirley recommends:

  • Cleanser: Skin condition specific

  • Cleansers: Toner: Skin condition specific

  • Exfoliator: Daily Resurfacer

  • Targeted Treatments: C-12 Pure Bright Serum (AM & PM)

  • Moisturiser: Pure Light SPF50,

  • Night Cream: Pure Night




Are Dermalogica products organic?

The objectives of Dermalogica are to use both natural and technological discoveries to generate the most advanced formulations imaginable. Natural infers that such product has been created exclusively from botanic resources devoid of any chemical additives. Additionally, it implies that such natural ingredients are not processed or changed in any way. Sadly, because of the lack of any real characterisation or directive for natural products, this expression has, throughout the industry, been used extremely loosely and incorrectly. The truth is, the word ‘natural’ is practically pointless.

Within our advertising-driven world, where industries often tout that natural is best, we tend to overlook the point that even though something might be natural, it does not necessarily mean it’s better than the synthetic option.  As an example, poison ivy is natural, but it doesn’t imply you should rub it across your face! What do we mean by chemical? Fundamentally, everything is a chemical. No matter if it’s living or not, everything is made from identical chemical elements. The belief that chemicals are harmful to you is not good science when ultimately all things, natural and synthetic are chemicals! There seems to be a real misapprehension about this information. Globally, organic certification is complicated and varies from country to country. Through Dermalogica’s use of nature’s best and science, it is not possible for us to attain organic certification.

Are Dermalogica products paraben free?

Despite Dermalogica always having extreme views concerning the demonstrated safety of parabens, we acknowledge that a significant number of consumers are fearful about using formulas which contain parabens. Increasingly, Dermalogica has been regenerating formulas, so they are entirely paraben-free. The final product on our list is Moist and Soothing Eye Makeup Remover.

Are Dermalogica products vegan/gluten free?

Currently, Dermalogica is working hard towards achieving complete vegan-friendly status. A good percentage of our formulas are already vegan-friendly – search for the vegan-friendly symbol. Some of our products are not ‘gluten free’ but those marked with the gluten-free symbol are. Please review our vegetarian and vegan product list for those to avoid:  

Essential Cleansing Solution – includes Beeswax

Skin Prep Scrub – includes Mel/Honey/Extract

De Meil Sheer Tint/Light/Medium/Dark SPF20 – includes Hydrolysed Pearl

SkinPerfect Primer SPF30 – includes Hydrolysed Pearl

Pearl Active Moist and Soothing Eye Makeup Remover – includes Silk Amino Acids


Can I use Dermalogica if pregnant?

There is no doubt that during pregnancy, skin conditions can change dramatically. We advise regular check-ins with your Skin Therapist – it’s possible that you could become prone to breakouts, develop pigmentation or sensitivity, your skin could turn oily or dehydrated. Adjusting your ‘at-home’ skincare regime will help you to control any changes. The majority of Dermalogica’s skin care products are totally safe to use while pregnant. We encourage you to consult with your physician or seek medical advice before you use any of these products listed below while pregnant or if breastfeeding.

Age Reversal Eye Complex (Retinol)

Multivitamin Power Serum (Hydroxy pinacolone Retinoate) 

Overnight Retinol Repair (0.5%) (Retinol)

Overnight Retinol Repair (1%) (Retinol)

Owing to updates, systematic product reformulations and launches for new products, information can quickly become outdated. We, therefore, recommend you get in touch with us again if you have a similar query or question in the future to make sure that you have the latest and most current details.